It is not good to take the same path(s) constantly. Sometimes, things need to be changed and the routine broken. Therefore, not so long time ago, I’ve decided to make a change and, instead of my regular hiking route from Šestine to Kraljičin zdenac (Queen’s well) on central Medvednica, went to the eastern part of the mountain to visit (again) places called Lipa and Tepčina špica, while an unplanned detour to see Velika Peč (“big cave”) dropped in. I don’t consider that detour as a bad choice as that area turned out to be a really fascinating place. The area of Lipa (Linden) is characterized by mountain meadows, special flora and beautiful views. Two peaks of the same name (“Rog” = “horn”; “antler”) are found here. At the lower one (709 m) a climber’s lodge Lipa and an iron “pyramid” are situated. Do not think that you’ll see an actual “pyramid” – in Croatian language, that is also the term used for a high metal construction placed on hilltops to serve as a viewpoint. Don’t ask why such a name – I have no idea as it doesn’t resemble a pyramid at all and has no pyramidal shape!
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| view of Planina Donja from the first part of the ascent |
We have started our hike in the village Planina Donja. This is the shortest ascent to Lipa which is not accessible by car. As you can’t have the shortest and the easiest in one package, this is a very steep path. The hike takes around 1 hour if you’re in some shape. If not, maybe even more time is needed.
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| first part of the path scenery |
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| first part of the path - old stable (or something like that) |
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| first part of the path - meadow |
At the end of it, you’ll find a lovely meadow at the foot of lower Rog. On its edge stands a Chapel of Croatian martyrs built in 2000. At the time of our visit, the meadow itself was a wonderful sight and, with a blossoming cherry at one end, it was a healing sight for both eyes and mind.
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| Chapel of Croatian martyrs |
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| meadow with blossoming cherry |
It takes a hike of no more than 2-3 minutes from the chapel to the climber’s lodge Lipa. The house was built in 1967 and expanded in 1972. It is open on weekends and holidays.
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| climber's lodge "Lipa" |
At the top of Rog, 30 m above the lodge, stands an iron pyramid placed here in 1970 to provide a panoramic view of Zagorje, Posavina and Medvednica ridge.
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| the pyramid - viewpoint |
After the short break at Lipa (the lodge was closed as it was a working day), we continued our hike toward Tepčina špica. This part of the path is very pleasant and easy as it is mostly placed straight with almost no steep parts.
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| path Lipa - Tepčina špica |
Halfway to Tepčina špica, we came across the pile of rocks with a cross and a sign “Apparition hill”. I don’t want to engage myself into religious debates so I will make no comments at all. I’ll just say that we had a good laugh, took some pictures and moved on.
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| fascinating "Apparition hill" |
Right after the fascinating hill, you can take a small path to your right and, after 1 minute, you’ll reach small spring Rumlec.
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| spring Rumlec |
We continue onward to Tepčina špica, go around its west side to climb it from the north.
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| access path to Tepčina špica coming from the north |
At the top of the hill, at 642 m, is a plateau on which SW and SE parts you can find scarce remains of an unknown castle. The legend has it that the castle’s name was Karivaroš, the name borne today by the village at the foot of the hill. Present-day name maybe comes from the word “tepčija” which was a medieval court title in this area. The word “špica” means “peak” or “spike” and it describes how the hill appears when looked at from afar. At the plateau, scattered stones are easily visible and, if you look hard, you’ll notice many mortar pieces. Small archaeological excavations were conducted at the site in 1988 and 1998. Those have confirmed the existence of a castle but its exact dating still remains uncertain.
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| scarce remains of an unknown castle |
After the “camping” and lunch at Tepčina špica, and declining the transport to the unwanted passenger Tick that tried to smuggle itself on our backpack, we headed back toward Lipa. Although we’ve already been hiking for around 4 hours, I still didn’t have enough of it :-) and have decided to visit the cave called Velika peč (literally “big cave”) as, at that moment, I had no desire at all to climb all over again up that steep hill to Lipa (at least not in the near future – read: next few years :-D ). The path to Velika peč separates itself from the “main path” at the foot of higher Rog. Here you’ll find the sign “Velika peč, 25 min”. It seemed so short and attractive. “Nice, wide path leads there, it shouldn’t be hard”, I thought. Ah well, after a very short period of time, the nice, wide path became narrow path.
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| the path is already starting to turn into a "goat-track" |
“Bah, doesn’t matter, it still goes quite straight.” And then it started to descend and then to ascend to finally reach the plateau above the Velika peč (which I didn’t know at the moment) – it’s a small plateau with a wonderful view of Zagorje, Tepčina špica, Rog and other surrounding hills. Lots of green woods and blue skies.
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| view of Tepčina špica from the top of Velika peč |
And now, where is that Velika peč? At one big rock, a sign. “Velika peč, 10 min”, it says. And the first one said 25 minutes and we’ve already been hiking almost as much. This was the first time in my life that I needed more time to reach a certain destination (on foot) than written on a sign! It usually takes me 1/2 or sometimes not more than 1/3 of a stated time! But well, what is another 10 minutes when we got this far! And here’s where the hilarity has started! It wasn’t a path anymore, it was a “goat-track” (in Croatian, the term goat-track/path is used for very narrow, steep and often dangerous paths). And not for regular goat, but for the goat that practices free climbing or mountaineering. For a kamikaze-goat! :-D The path is very steep, almost vertical. During the descent, the one should hold himself to trees and bushes. At some parts, the path is even secured with ropes. You should descend very carefully to avoid rolling all the way down to Zagorje. :-D
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| "goat-track" |
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| at some parts, you need to "go down on your butt" to save your head |
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| but not everything is so black - the view makes it up for all the "sufferings"! |
When you have finished the descent, you’ll have to go around the big rock protruding onto the path no more than 40-50 cm wide. The path is secured here with a metal rope. I recommend you hold onto it as the foot can slip easily and then – “farewell forever!”
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| the last part - big rock protruding onto the path |
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| you need to hold on tight to avoid rollin' all all the way down! |
But after the “clear and present danger” – the reward! In the rock the cave entrance openes. It’s not very large, but it’s larger than I expected. Honestly, I though it’ll be some small cave in which not even a child could enter, but instead a proper cave around 10 m deep and 7 m high. Again a short break, followed with some photo-shooting and mental preparation for the ascent.
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| entrance to the cave |
When we have finally started the ascent back, at first I thought that it’s much easier to go up as we had to go “on all fours” so hands were helping a lot. But after the first third of the path, I took back what I’ve said. Legs hurt, hands a bit less, the last atoms of strength were vanishing in a thin air… If we have taken only the hike to Velika peč, it would probably be fine. But so far we have hiked for almost 5 hours and I’ve really had it. Anyway, I have managed to reach the plateau from the beginning of the Velika peč story. The second camping has followed. The remains of empanadas, potato chips and chocolate have quickly found the way to my stomach.
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| "camping and feeding" at the top of Velika peč ;-) |
After the meal and a 15-minute rest, the world seemed like a much better place. The view was even better, the sky was blue with scattered white clouds and my batteries were quickly filled enough to be able to take me back to the car and enable a drive back to Zagreb. In spite of all the exertion and complete exhaustion, this trip was among the better ones lately. I have managed to see something new to me on Medvednica, something definitely worth seeing. But for that, it is required to be deft and at least in some shape. The access to Velika peč is not for everyone, during the descent/ascent a great caution is necessary no matter how old (young) or how skillful in climbing someone is. But it is worth a visit. Definitely. :-)
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| Chapel of Croatian martyrs and blossoming cherry at our way back |
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| view of st. George and the hill Gradec at the back, also the location of a castle |
If you have some time to spare, the st. George’s church in Planina Donja is worth a visit. The church was built in the 13th ct., probably by Cruciferi de s. Sepulchro Jerosolinitano (medieval ordeal that had its seat in village Glogovnica). In the 17th ct. the church was in ruins so it was reconstructed throughout the century, but the massive bell tower and the profiled doorpost of the main portal are with no doubt of Gothic origin.
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| st. George's church in Planina Donja |
