N.P. Risnjak - Veliki Risnjak

“Deep inside the forest

Is a door into another land

Here is our life and home…”

Deep inside the forest, in the heart of Gorski kotar (literally: Highland district), only one-hour drive from Zagreb, lies National park Risnjak. For me, far most favorite and beautiful among all parks in Croatia. “Way to go!” Plitvice, Krka, Mljet, Brijuni... but to me, it seems as there’s no place where I can find such an ultimate peace, quietness and real bond with nature like the one I can find here (but that’s only my humble opinion). I don’t know, maybe that’s my highlander quarter that speaks from me now, the part that descends from Crni Lug, a small village situated at the very edge of the park (the park administration is in Bijela Vodica, Crni Lug area). Whether you decide to climb the highest peak – Veliki (Big) Risnjak, or refresh yourself at the source of river Kupa, or you prefer an easy and pleasant stroll through the forest following the Leska Educational path, you’ll surely be left breathless by the nature and beauty of this place.  It happens to me constantly, and I’ve been here so many times…

view of Josip Schlosser mountain hut and Veliki Risnjak

I won’t write stories about park history and similar things as the park has really good official web page (click here). They’ve even described hiking trails and stuff like that. Well done! Really commendable. Just to mention the name “Risnjak”  - it comes from the word “ris” which means “lynx”. Once upon a time there were many lynx at this region, nowadays it’s extremely rare but this is one of the rare areas in Croatia where the lynx survives.

Eurasian lynx

As said before, many times I’ve been at Risnjak, at the foot of Risnjak, around the Risnjak… and this time the decision was made to climb (again) the highest peak of the park Veliki Risnjak (Big Risnjak), at 1528 m, from which beautiful views extend over the Kvarner bay, Istria and the Julian Alps in Slovenia.

view of Kvarner

view of Lokvarsko lake

view of  Snježnik

As this was a one-day trip, we had to choose one of the short paths – for example, the 3-hour hike from Bijela Vodica, Crni Lug was out of the question. The problem was not in the hike but the driving back to Zagreb later. I think I would have been too tired for that. :-) So, we have decided on the path from Gornje Jelenje (Vilje entrance: 6 km from Gornje Jelenje by partly paved road to the spot in the forest called “kod bukve” (literally “at beech’s”) where you can park) that leads through the site of Medvjeđa vrata (Bear’s gate). 

parking "kod bukve"

This is the shortest way to reach the peak and it takes around 1-hour hike to get there. The path goes through the forest most of the time so it’s a pleasant hike even in the summertime. After a 15-20 minutes walk from the beech, you reach Medvjeđa vrata, at 1280 m. Of course, these are not real gate, but a notch in the rock from which a view extends over the forest to the south. This is also a crossroad of paths from Crni Lug (variant via Medvjeđa vrata), from Mrzla Vodica, from Gornje Jelenje and from the Veliki Risnjak. 

Medvjeđa vrata

Our way continues onwards by the path that clinges onto the Risnjak ridge, passes by the slope of southern Mali Risnjak (Little Risnjak) and comes out of the forest to enter the scrub forest zone from which the view extends over the entire Risnjak massif and the Schlosser mountain hut.

the path, view from the north

view from the path on the hut and Veliki Risnjak

view from the path on the hut and Veliki Risnjak

The Schlosser mountain hut, at 1418 m, is situated on the meadow at the foot of Veliki Risnjak. Both the hut and the meadow are named after dr. Josip Schlosser Klekovski (1808-1882), Croatian physician, alpinist and botanist, also an explorer of Risnjak mountain. 

dr. Josip Schlosser Klekovski

Present-day hut is built at the spot of the old one, built in 1932 and destroyed during the WWII. The hut was completed in 1957. and completely renovated in 1988. From May 1 to October 31, the hut is open every day EXCEPT Tuesday and during the rest of the year, the winter room is open.

dr. Josip Schlosser Klekovski mountain hut

Behind the hut, the ascent to the Veliki Risnjak peak begins. You’ll need around 15 minutes, first through the pine scrub forest zone and then through the rocks to reach the peak. 

beginning of the path behind the hut

path through the rocks

At some spots, the path is secured with metal rope, and at other you’ll need to use your hands and hold onto the rocks. But, despite that, the ascent is not heavy and is suitable for (almost) all people off all age. 

better to hold onto the rope than break a neck! :-D

At the top of the peak there is a big monolithic rock with a register book and a stamp.

Veliki Risnjak peak

At the time of our visit, a strong wind was blowing so we didn’t enjoy the view as much as we hoped for, but when there’s no wind…. then it’s a real pleasure and delight. But, what can be done? … it can’t be perfect every single time. :-)

Here are some photos of view from the top:

At the end, here’s a little bit of flora and fauna:

turk's cap lily (lilium martagon)

oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) and little red beetles

Old man's beard / Traveler's Joy (Clematis Vitalba L.)

aconite, monkshood (Aconitum) ??

mountain pine (pinus mugo)

peacock butterfly (Inachis Io)

and to conclude with the rest of the verse from the beginning of the post ... :-)

“…We are stayin’ here forever

In the beauty of this place, all alone…”

View NP Risnjak - Veliki Risnjak in a larger map